Thursday, March 10, 2016

Brows 101.....A Step by Step Guide to Filling in Your Brows (Lip Service featured on SheFinds.....)

When Lisa Fogarty from SheFinds reached out and asked me for the lowdown on brows....heck yeah, I was happy to contribute!  My clients constantly tell me that they have NO IDEA how to fill in their brows, and they get even more confused by Instagram and YouTube gurus who draw on some MAJOR brows that can be well....scary. So how do you enhance them....naturally?  Here's my step by step guide as featured in this article on SheFinds......
Photo credit: Maxtree
Can we all agree, once and for all, that drawn-on eyebrows are not a good look? Achieving gorgeous brows takes commitment and patience, not whatever makeup pencil you happen to have handy. In addition to letting eyebrows grow, brow-savvy beauties know just how to fill in their arches with makeup so that they look natural, not fake. Need a few pro pointers? Makeup artist and beauty expert Jennifer Trotter of Lip Service Makeup is here with the only step-by-step guide to filling in our eyebrows you’ll ever need so they always look seriously stunning–not severe.
1. Assess your shape. There is no one universal paradigm for how to fill in your brows. The tools you choose and how you use them all depend on your brow type and the specific issue you want to address. Here are the general rules for different eyebrow types:
– If you have fairly full brows with a well defined shape, you’ll want to fill in the few bare spots for a bit of polish. “Use brow powder–it’s the most natural approach and it’s easy to use. Just apply the brow powder that matches your shade using a small, dense, angled brush and mimic hair-like strokes,” Trotter says.
– If you have full brows with hairs that stand away from your skin, use pencil or powder and experiment first to see which works best, Trotter says. Then follow the same steps as you would for full brows. For added drama, Trotter suggests using a bit of pencil with powder on top.
– If you have very thin brows that need to be filled in and your eyebrow hair is dense and close to your skin, use pomade. “This is the trickiest of all the options, but works well with this brow type,” Trotter says. “Choose a waterproof pomade, apply with a dense, angled brow brush using short and careful strokes. Don’t draw it in a line! Use a concealer brush with a tiny bit of concealer on it to clean up and soften edges.”
– If you have very thin brows with longer brow hairs that stand away from your skin, use a pencil to create hair-like strokes, then a bit of powder on top. “The pencil is needed to create the brow structure and fill in missing spots. Using a thin brow pencil in a shade that matches, draw short hair-like strokes. Once you have the shape in place, apply a bit of brow powder using a small angled brow brush. The powder will cling to the hairs that are there and make it look more natural,” Trotter explains.
2. Perfect your technique. Mimic short, hair-like strokes when applying any brow product.
Makeup: Jennifer Trotter, Photo Credit: Charla Storey
3. Pick the right product. Choose a brow product that matches the shade of your brows or one shade darker. Additionally, you should choose products made specifically for brows. Eye pencils and eyeshadows can often have the wrong formulation–they’re too creamy or too dry. Products made specifically for brows have more staying power and the control you need.
4. Go slow. Take your time and don’t rush through your brow makeup application. Bad brows will ruin your whole look, so it’s best to go slow instead of piling on product.
5. Use the right tools. Use a brow brush that is small and angled with densely packed bristles for the most control and best results.
6. Prep your brows.  Brush your brows up and into place before applying any brow products, and again after you’ve applied them for the most natural look.
7. Correct mistakes. Use a concealer brush with a tiny bit of concealer as an “erasing” tool–it can clean up lines you’ve messed up, soften a line that’s too harsh, and can be used lightly on your entire brow to soften a look that’s too dark.
8. Don’t forget to cleanse! Always remove your brow products when you cleanse your face, and don’t forget to scrub your brows. Pencil, powder and pomade can build up in your brows and create dead skin and a messy look.
Of course, no guide would be complete without a list of no-no’s, so here are 3 things Trotter says you should never do when filling in your eyebrows:
1. Never drastically alter the shape of your natural brows. Just like you shouldn’t over-tweeze a naturally full brow, you don’t want to overdraw naturally thin ones. If they’re naturally thin, it’s okay to fill them in a bit, but don’t overdo it.
2. Never use brow products the way you would a pen or pencil. Don’t draw a line. It’ll never look natural and it’ll look really bad if your line is uneven.
3. Don’t choose brow products in a color different than your own.  If your brows are a light brown, a dark chocolate brown brow will look harsh and throw off the balance of your face.  The most goof-proof shade is a medium taupe that can work on almost anyone.
And....bonus! Here a few of my favorite brow products:
Photo credit: Essiebuttons.com


Pencils - MAC brow pencils (Fling is great for blondes, Stud is awesome for brunettes)
               IT Cosmetics Brow Power - a neutral taupe pencil that works on nearly everyone

Powder - Senna Brow Book (My kit staple! Find your perfect shade in this long-lasting powder)
                Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powder Duo - two shades in each compact to mix for your perfect match

Pomade - Anastasia Beverly Hills Dip Brow  - Chocolate is a great shade for warm brunettes

Brow Brush - Makeup Forever Angled Brow Brush
                       MAC Cosmetics #208 Brow Brush
                       (Look for a brush with an angled tip and short, dense bristles)

Thanks so much to Lisa Fogarty and SheFinds for featuring my tips!!  Check out SheFinds daily for all the beauty lowdown you need to look and feel fabulous.....


1 comment:

  1. Great !!! This is so phenomenal!!!That is very impressive information! I love it. You really did a super job with the Skin Care! I use to do buy online Skin Care as its time saving.

    Dry Skin

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